tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-80543590684730598872024-03-05T16:58:35.887-08:00A day in the life of Zonder ZorgAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03413782411711512317noreply@blogger.comBlogger172125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8054359068473059887.post-59236587521257112642013-10-30T11:26:00.000-07:002013-10-30T11:26:10.581-07:00With Grace<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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We have reached our destination - Carcassonne, just north of the Pyrenees and not far from the Spanish border.</div>
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Among the isolation there was peacefulness, stillness and tranquility. There was no internet, so a Day in the Life of Zonder Zorg came to a halt. I am closing the blog with thanks to the readers and this photo of Grace:</div>
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The sun was shining on the day as I captured this crane taking off; the quietness of Zonder Zorg startled it. </div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03413782411711512317noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8054359068473059887.post-19050108725076354092013-09-14T01:14:00.000-07:002013-09-14T01:14:35.367-07:00Friday the Thirteenth<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Happy 69th birthday Michael! I wish you many more boating years.</div>
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We left our mooring spot in Champagne in style; a mechanic from Paris came out to repair the ongoing engine concerns on Zonder Zorg and seems to have corrected its problem.</div>
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We retraced our path through the broken locks and found most repaired, only the swing bridge needed some help.</div>
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We arrived at Châlons-en-Champagne at 16:30 and the lock master came to help with this very high lock. It is the end of the season and there was no problem finding a mooring spot.</div>
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We celebrated the evening with a home cooked meal of St Jacques seared with mushrooms in an Armagnac-butter reduction and toasted with a bottle of Champagne Canard-Duchêne. We received several birthday wishes from friends and family.</div>
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Friday the 13th has been considered bad luck throughout history for no apparent reason. There is a superstition, thought by some to derive from the Last Supper, that having thirteen people seated at a table results in death of one of the diners. </div>
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Friday is also the day Jesus Christ was crucified, according to the gospels and adding the day's unpopularity.</div>
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On Friday the 13th of October 1307, a date linked to the origin of Friday-the-Thirteen superstition, hundreds of the Knights Templar were simultaneously arrested in France. This action was motivated to increase the prestige of the crown. King Philip IV, deeply in debt to the Templars, was the behind the ruthless move and pressured the newly appointed Pope Clement V, who was based at Avignon. Both falsely charged the Knights with heresy, immorality and abuses. Many of the order's members in France were arrested, tortured into giving false confessions and then burned at the stake. </div>
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In 2008 the Dutch Centre for Insurance Statistics stated that fewer accidents and reports of fire and theft occur when the 13th of the month falls on a Friday, than on any other Friday.<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03413782411711512317noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8054359068473059887.post-27164709065165764442013-09-13T08:31:00.000-07:002013-09-13T08:31:02.175-07:00Visiting De Venoge <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Marquis de Venoge, originally from Switzerland was intrigued with the emerging champagne market and moved to the area to found his company in 1837. </div>
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In the entrance hall is a marble statue of De Venoge and behind it some vintage advertisement posters. </div>
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We met our graceful hostess Emma Dawe-Coz who took us on a private tour of the tank room and down into the cellars far below street level.</div>
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The 1.5 km carved chalk cellars make a perfect climate for producing and storing Champagne.</div>
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The better bottles are still hand turned and the very old and rare are behind a locked iron gate. </div>
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Racks of Louis XV Champagne with it distinctively shaped bottle. On the 25th May 1728 Louis XV of France made viticultural history by issuing a decree allowing only the wines of Champagne to be both shipped and marketed in bottles.</div>
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After taking our photos we returned to street level, where the temperature was much warmer and the setting better for some champagne tasting.</div>
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We first tasted Cordon Blue Extra Brut, their famous house brand.</div>
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This was followed by Blanc de Noirs Brut Marquis, with the image of the Marquis de Venoge sitting at the table. The final wine was the Rosé Brut and also my favourite, with the image of a glamorous Marquise de Venoge sitting at the other side of the table. This rosé Champagne has persistent very fine bubbles and delicate notes of strawberries. </div>
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De Venoge produces about 800,000 bottles a year and the three Champagnes we tasted each were priced in France at €35.50</div>
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The labeling, packaging and the bottle shapes are exquisite, as they must be with the stiff competion in Champagne. </div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03413782411711512317noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8054359068473059887.post-57939578455857346012013-09-12T06:24:00.001-07:002013-09-12T06:30:24.195-07:00Autumn in Champagne<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Around us the landscape is in transition with harvest time nearing and the cellars making room for the new crop. Teams of grape pickers will soon be arriving, as all of the grapes are hand picked and sorted.</div>
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Even though the town has put out many planters filled with blooming flowers, signs of autumn are all around us.</div>
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At the lock house next to where we are moored, the garden has lost its lustre.</div>
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On the other side of the lock it is definitely autumn and we moved Zonder Zorg from that spot as the leaves we pilling up all over the barge.</div>
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Far away from shedding trees she is now moored snugly for another while.</div>
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Among the golden and ochre autumn colours there remain a few sprigs of mauve.</div>
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Bits of colour still remain as the plants try to hang on.</div>
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The most successful at hanging on are the burdocks, Mother Nature's velcro; I was covered in them on my return to the barge.</div>
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Free of burdocks, I prepared a simple lunch.<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03413782411711512317noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8054359068473059887.post-15829016076839991192013-09-11T00:53:00.001-07:002013-09-11T00:55:53.684-07:00A Walk Through Aij<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">We went through our last lock and stopped for brunch just outside of Aij. The spot was rather comfortable and we decide to linger for a few days.</span><br />
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It was Sunday and everything was closed, shuttered and quiet. On our walk there was an old wine press on display. Modern methods have not changed much as old rules and regulations are still in place.</div>
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Aij or Ay is most famous as a centre of the production of Champagne. Aij"s vineyards are located in the Vallée de la Marne on Montagne de Reims and are classified as Grand Cru in the Champagne vineyard classification. </div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">The directional sign post to our favourite Champagne Houses in Aij. Many prestigious Champagne houses own vineyards in the immediate vicinity and many producers are located in Aij.</span></div>
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We took a stroll though the vineyards to view the grapes and have a quick taste. The primary grapes used in the production of Champagne are Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">Champagne appellation laws only allow grapes grown according to appellation rules and in specifically designed plots within the appellation to be used in the production of Champagne.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">The trade of wine producing is very apparent.</span></div>
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The grandeur of Champagne houses peek out from behind closed gates. Many are entrance by invitation only. There are about forty Champagne houses in Aij including the oldest of the champagne houses dated from 1584. </div>
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Then there are other tastes, such as hedge hock purses.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">There are owls for the night life.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">Champagne bonbons in the shape of Champagne corks</span><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">Further down the street is a row of older timber framed houses with signs of a long prestigious past. Pope Leon 10th and some of the Kings of France regularly stocked up here.</span><span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">Churches owned vineyards and monks produced wine for the use in the sacrament of Eucharist. French kings were traditionally anointed in Reims, and Champagne was served as part of the coronation festivities. The oldest recorded sparkling wine, which was apparently invented by the Benedictine Monks in the Abbey of Saint Hillaire, near Carcassonne in 1531.</span></div>
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The sky was darkening and it was time to return to the barge.</div>
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The change in the weather has snuck-up on us unnoticed and suddenly Autumn leaves are starting to appear everywhere.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03413782411711512317noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8054359068473059887.post-7555146373594555642013-09-10T02:14:00.002-07:002013-09-10T02:14:34.636-07:00The Town of Ay<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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We left our last broken lock and smiling fishermen behind us as we raced to the next lock before they close for the evening. We missed it by a minute but it didn't really matter as that one was broken as well. We spent the night outside the lock next to the lock master's house.</div>
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The area around us awakened as the morning mist was lifting off the water into the glowing rays of the morning sun.</div>
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The geese had also started their day by looking for food followed by a hiss.</div>
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Local fishermen were setting up and getting in position for the catch of the day.</div>
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Early morning joggers gave us a wave. </div>
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Neatly groomed vineyards are beginning to line the canal.</div>
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We had arrived and were welcomed into the town of Ay</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03413782411711512317noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8054359068473059887.post-54466838213501766962013-09-09T05:42:00.001-07:002013-09-09T05:42:22.401-07:00Souterrain de Mont-de-Billy<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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We left Sillery early in the morning, just as another boat decided to leave. After a brief traffic jam in the marina, we had the canal to ourselves. The other boat headed downstream, returning to Belgium while we continued upstream and further into the Champagne, with only the ducks keeping us company.</div>
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The hills started to appear with neat rows of planted grape vines and wine producing structures. Dotted along the slopes of Montagne de Reims are small wine producing villages, famous for centuries.</div>
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The route that we had chosen for the day entailed twelve locks and a tunnel. The locks were not as deep and nine of them were the easier down locks. It is the end of the season and we found some of the locks broken, ready for their winter maintenance. A quick call on the VHF had a lock master at the broken lock within ten minutes.</div>
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We entered the Souterrain de Mont-de-Billy, a tunnel 2302 metres long. It was opened in 1866 and has a tow path alongside it. It is well lit inside. The lights come on automatically when the tunnel is occupied and sensors regulate the one-way traffic lights at each end. The cost involved in its construction would have been tremendous but serving the Champagne area must have been worth it.</div>
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It took half an hour to slowly glide through. It reminded me of the Phantom of the Opera, but rather than through the sewers of Paris, we were gliding beneath the hills of Champagne.</div>
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The tunnel was quiet and the water still, with the soft reflections of the light created circles making it took tubular. There were other boats waiting at the other side as we entered day light and the tunnel direction light turned green for them.</div>
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Not far from the tunnel was a small boat with three young adults on it. It had Lampedusa to London on it and it looked like they were busy planning their dream.</div>
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The next lock we found broken and had to wait for the Lock Master to handle the manual controls. While waiting, I noticed five young fisherman fishing outside the far end of the lock. I suspected they might have had something to do with the jammed lock. The lock master manually opened the lock for us and we slowly maneuvered the barge inside as I took my position at the bow to rope the appropriate bollard. </div>
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I am still nursing my cracked ribs and not very good with throwing the line. I did notice that the five young fishermen were watching me. I tossed the line, it hooked around the bollard the first time and pulled it in snugly as I looked back at five very impressed fishermen.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03413782411711512317noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8054359068473059887.post-60312684082953921012013-09-08T03:04:00.000-07:002013-09-08T03:04:45.915-07:00Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Reims<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;">This is my second visit to Our Lady of Reims Cathedral and I was impressed as I was the first time. </span><br />
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This cathedral replaces a much older church, which was the site where Clovis, the first King of France was baptized and crowned in AD 496. Before that, that original structure had been erected on the site of some Roman baths.</div>
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On July 6, 1210 the cathedral was damaged by fire and reconstruction stated shortly there after. The 1216 records show the acquisition of land to the west of the site, which indicated space for a much larger replacement Cathedral.</div>
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In 1233 a long-running dispute between the Cathedral chapter and the townsfolk regarding taxation issues and legal jurisdiction ended in an open revolt. Several clerics were killed or injured during the violence and the entire cathedral chapter fled the city, leaving the church in interdict. With that it effectively banned all public worship and sacraments for the next three years. Following mediation by the King and the Pope, the interdict was lifted and the clergy returned.</div>
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The towers which stand 81 metres tall were originally designed to rise 120 metres. The south tower holds just two great bells, with one of them weighing more than 10,000 kilograms. The interior of the Cathedral is 138.75 metres long and 30 metres wide in the nave and 38 metres high in the centre. </div>
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During the Hundred Years' War the Cathedral and Reims fell into English hands and was held until 1429 when it was liberated by Jeanne d' Arc. This allowed the Dauphin Charles to be crowned King.</div>
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German shellfire during World War1 destroyed important parts of the Cathedral. Many of the medieval stained glass windows were damaged or destroyed. The high windows were patiently reconstructed others were replaced with a more modern theme. The boldness in colour of Marc Chagall and the softer tones of Brigit Simon have added to the collection of stained glass.<br />
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<span style="text-align: left;">The smiling angel was damaged during World War 1, when during artillery fire a shell came down and decapitated the angel. Citizens picked-up the pieces and the smiling angel was restored to guard the entrance of the Cathedral.</span></div>
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In 2011, the city of Reims celebrated the Cathedral's 800th anniversary.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03413782411711512317noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8054359068473059887.post-43612320638647737382013-09-07T00:47:00.000-07:002013-09-07T00:47:17.480-07:00Saint Joan<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Outside the Cathedral of Reims stands a statue of a petit woman in armour riding a horse. This is Joan of Arc. She became a folk heroine of France and a Roman Catholic Saint.</div>
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Jeanne d'Arc was born around 1412, in Domrémy, Duchy of Bar, now eastern France. She was a peasant girl who claimed divine guidance after her first vision around the age of twelve. She identified the figures in the vision as Saint Michael, Saint Catherine and Saint Margaret, who told her to drive out the English and bring the Dauphin to Reims for his coronation. </div>
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She led the French army to several important victories during the Hundred Years' War. These victories paved the way for the coronation of Charles VII of France in the Cathedral of Reims.</div>
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She was captured by the Burgundians and handed over to the English for reward money. Jeanne was put on trail by the Bishop of Beauvais, Pierre Cauchon for charges of "insubordination and heterodoxy". She was burned at the stake for heresy on 30 May 1431 at the age of nineteen years. </div>
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Twenty-five years after her execution, an inquisitorial court authorized by Pope Callixtus III examined the trail, pronounced her innocent and declared Jeanne d'Arc a martyr. Along with her martyrdom she was beatified in 1909 and canonized in 1920. Sainte Jeanne had also joined St. Denis, St Martin of Tours, St Louis IX and St Theresa of Lisieux as one of the Patron Saints of France. </div>
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There is a dedication to her in the Cathedral in Reims.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03413782411711512317noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8054359068473059887.post-22387258868790864922013-09-05T23:45:00.000-07:002013-09-05T23:45:49.176-07:00A Day in Reims<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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After a good cup of coffee we took the local bus and headed to Reims before it got too hot. We had finally reached a city that would be able to accommodate our growing list of needs. </div>
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We are still not accustom to the long line ups, the endless paper work nor the shops and offices closing down for two or three hours for lunch in the middle of the day. We managed to strike a few items of our list and then took our time to wander through the city.</div>
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What is apparent is that the area had suffered greatly during the wars, especially World War I. Across the road from were we are moored are some reminders of World War I's front, row upon row of crosses.</div>
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About eighty percent of Reims had been destroyed and as we travel trough France we are aware of the slow replacement of the stained glass windows that were broken nearly a century ago. The churches or communities replace the stained glass with modern concepts, as the classic trade of stained glass production and their talented painters are long gone. </div>
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We walked along the streets and through the small arcades that are lined with shops of fine clothing, accessories and foods. During our old world window shopping a colourful array of macaroons, fondant and dark and white chocolate caused us to pause. The window displays are works of art.</div>
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This chocolate shop was a Belgian classic and we drooled as we made our selection of pralines and saw them carefully placed in a box. Its label read:</div>
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beaucoup à la folie</div>
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le midi le soir, pour </div>
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les Chocolats</div>
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Late afternoon we returned to Zonder Zorg and in the evening Chef Michael presented us with a meal of seared coquilles St Jacques with a garnish of mushrooms, shallots and garlic caramelized in butter and Sauvignon Blanc. This was served with basmati rice, haricots fins almandine and sliced roma tomatoes and complemented by a bottle of Champagne Canard Duchesne. After all we are in the Champagne region.</div>
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After dinner we carefully followed the instructions on the chocolate box.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03413782411711512317noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8054359068473059887.post-43463702705443704062013-09-05T03:38:00.000-07:002013-09-05T03:38:39.640-07:00Retournez à Reims<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span id="goog_2086188045"></span><span id="goog_2086188046"></span>About twenty-eights years ago Cannondale Bicycles came up with a cart called the "Bugger". It was made of sturdy plastic and hooked up under the bike saddle. We thought it was a neat idea and bought one to travel through France. </div>
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Genevieve and Amy attended French play school in Deep Cove and we thought that exposing them to other French speaking children would enhance their language skills.</div>
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We checked in our bicycles and the Bugger on our first flight to Amsterdam. Our touring bicycles were Japanese and when they arrived in Amsterdam, one wheel was damaged with a slight buckle. Since we were in the Netherlands, a bicycle repair shop was not far away. The wheel was repaired instantly and we were on our way to France.</div>
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Our journey took us through Reims and we stayed in a small hotel with a shed were we could lock up the bikes and the Bugger. One of our interests was to see the Cathedral.</div>
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Outside the Cathedral, Genevieve tripped and scrapped her face on the gravel. As she stood up crying, a bird flew over and pooped a perfect hallo on her red hair.</div>
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It had not been a good day for Genevieve in Reims.<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03413782411711512317noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8054359068473059887.post-91871849683469822462013-09-04T00:34:00.000-07:002013-09-04T00:34:20.317-07:00Huayna Picchu, Peru<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Holding the top spot of the list of the "World's Most Dangerous Hikes" is Huayna Picchu, Peru.</div>
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I had first seen the peak in the mid-seventies when I travel in Peru. Peter Gelin and I took the narrow gage railway out of Cuzco to Aguas Calientes at the base of Machu Picchu. The train stopped in what seemed the middle of nowhere and we hiked up the muddy road to the only hotel of Aguas Calientes. </div>
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The following morning we took a small bus up the switchback dirt road to Machu Picchu. It was remote and well hidden on the ridge and the site was in the midst of archeological excavation. Dominating the site was was the peak of Huayna Picchu, elevation 2720 metres. It was a very dangerous and risky climb with excavations still taking place..</div>
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I was so impressed with Machu Picchu and its excavations that we spent all of our time wandering the ruins. At the time the theory was that it had been a nunnery, as the skeletal remains that were found were mostly those of females. Not wanting to stay another night in Aguas Calientes, we took the train back to Cuzco.</div>
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In 2010, while living aboard Yacht Sequitur, moored in La Punts, outside Lima, Peru, we took the opportunity to visit Cusco and Machu Picchu. </div>
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I was curious to see the site again and its development over the years. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and has the numbers of its daily and annual visitors controlled. </div>
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I was delighted to see the expansion of the site with areas I had not previously seen. The theory that it had once been a nunnery had also changed through DNA. The skeletal remains were both male and female. Huayna Picchu had become accessible, but with a limited number of visitors per day, an early start was recommended.</div>
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We took the first bus up to Machu Picchu, checking in early for our hike up Huayna Picchu. The climb was straight up and because of the altitude it was slow. The seemingly never-ending Inca trail took us higher and higher until we reached the lower levels of the excavations. Steep stairwells and huts began appearing and the trees made way for the view of the valley below.</div>
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The view was magnificent and we followed the Inca trail through passageways and a carved stairway to the top. Slightly below the top was a viewing area; a large rock platform. To reach the platform one has to jump down one metre over a gaping crevice. That was relatively easy, but we discovered that one can not return that way. Unlike the Grouse Grind, there was no cable car down the mountain, but only the Inca steps alongside the cliff. </div>
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The barrel chested Incas were sure-footed and had little trouble running up and down these stairs; at least, there is no record of any that did not make it. The stairs were flat stones sticking out of the wall with no railing and steps too widely spaced for North American standards. </div>
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The last series of steps were on an overhang with the first bounce far below in the Urubamba Valley. Concentration was required; descending is more dangerous than ascending.</div>
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The climb was spectacular and we found the ruins there more interesting than those on Machu Picchu. We continued climbing down the trail and then climbed Huchuy Picchu at 2479 metres, a smaller peak which still looks down over Machu Picchu. We saved Machu Picchu for last and spent the next few hours roaming the site in awe. </div>
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Gone are the Fedora hatted ladies that wove their natural dyed wools along the side of the road. They have been replaced by factories and their mass-produced, aniline dyed weavings.<br />
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In the past, Machu Picchu had been at the top of my list of favourite places, but it now holds second place to Huayna Picchu.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03413782411711512317noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8054359068473059887.post-91899254293136033892013-09-01T15:16:00.002-07:002013-09-02T23:28:19.358-07:00Apples<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Theres is nothing tastier than tree picked fruit that had been ripped on the branch to perfection. We seldom get the opportunity to pick them.</div>
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We had picked more than enough for a Dutch appletaart, and the next day I started peeling and slicing them. They were rich in colours and slightly tart; perfect for pie.</div>
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I layering the springform with thin crust, I piled the apples up high. Sprinkled with caramelized brown sugar while Michael studied the manual for our oven. Our new European oven is microwave and convection and we found a setting specifically for Apple pie: P06. It automatically preheats the oven and beeps when it is ready, then bakes for an hour.</div>
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While the pie was cooling we went for a walk in the town of Siilery, one of the Grand Cru villages in the heart of Champagne. Along the way we keep seeing old champagne racks converted into planters.</div>
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Other interesting things are showing up as planters.</div>
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The pie turned out well, almost no crust, all apple with a bit of caramel flavour. Of course, we didn't forget a dollop of whipped cream.</div>
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The aromas of the pie brought in new friends.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03413782411711512317noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8054359068473059887.post-14632599747588850462013-09-01T13:45:00.003-07:002013-09-01T23:58:47.082-07:00Organic Apples<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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I am nursing cracked ribs, an injury that happened on our last day in New Brunswick. It is on my right side and as I am mostly right handed, this makes for slow healing and leaving most rope handling for Michael.</div>
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On the shore of today's section of canal we came upon a heavily laden apple tree. Michael manoeuvred the barge and drove its bow under the tree for easy picking. We had priced apples prior in the supermarkets and found them ridiculously expensive. </div>
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Continuing his manoeuvres with boat hook in one hand and picking with the other it resembled an apple dance .</div>
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The onlooking duck wasn't impressed.</div>
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I certainly was impressed with the yield.</div>
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We entered our daily series of locks.</div>
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Waiting for a barge to make it through the lock.</div>
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Passing a lady who was vigorously shaking out bedsheets through the open window, wondering what required such actions.</div>
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In the next lock we had a few onlookers, some wanting to know if the barge could fly with its wings.</div>
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Outside the lock the scenery changed into softness with only our barge making a small wave.</div>
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It was teatime and Michael got a <i>stroofwafel</i>, a Dutch carmel waffle, softened by the heat of the tea.</div>
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We came to the end of another fruitful day.<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03413782411711512317noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8054359068473059887.post-71923580076496271052013-09-01T00:27:00.000-07:002013-09-01T00:27:21.240-07:00Billy the Goat.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Today the locks were more gentile, lower in height and easier to manage. On our approach to this lock I spotted Billy the Goat in the orchard. </div>
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Billy was trying to reach one more apple as he had finished all that had been in his reach. Perhaps there was just one he had missed.</div>
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I walked across the old lock gate to reach the orchard, as the lock begins to fill.</div>
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Billy saw me coming and I was very pleased to see that he was securely tied down. He gave me a firm stare, after all it was his orchard.</div>
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He was used to having his photo taken as he gave me his good side profile.</div>
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Next was the passport photo shot; no smile.</div>
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I returned to the barge as the lock had filled.</div>
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Passing the old lock house the dog came to greet me with some very tired and hoarse barks.</div>
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After he had done his duty, he went back to the guard post to keep away robbers and thieves.</div>
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Everything in this lock was either old, tired, dilapidated or an antique.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03413782411711512317noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8054359068473059887.post-75217620809314779122013-08-31T13:49:00.000-07:002013-08-31T14:13:40.478-07:00The Lock from Hell<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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We made an early morning start from our previous night's mooring to arrive for the start of lock service at 0900. All of the locks in this system are fitted with a transponder operated by a remote control. The remote was issued to us when we entered France.<br />
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The lock had been filled all night and we had to wait and stand back for the turbulence of water that it is expelling. Insidethe chamber the ladder that I had to climb had been submerged and primed for me with wetness and slime.</div>
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The water level in this lock was 3.4 metres deep plus three additional metres of flood wall above. I carefully climbed the ladder with rope in hand, the other end of which was tied to Zonder Zorg. The list of the world's ten most dangerous hikes crossed my mind.</div>
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I was amazed that this lock was unmanned. The empty control house sat in an awkward position, leaving no room for bollards. I had managed to secure one line and went searching for a boathook. I found a heavy pipe with a hook on it; it was too long and too heavy for me to handle.</div>
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Michael secured the second line to the stairs and gave me the signal to turn on the water.</div>
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I watched from above as the massive amount of water started to enter the space.</div>
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The turbulence was strong, but Michael managed to control its force.</div>
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Zonder Zorg's stern was dragged across and touched the other side of the lock.</div>
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It was a relief when the lock had filled, the doors had open and we were on our way.</div>
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We watched fisherman along the canals, some waving, some annoyed.</div>
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Remains of the old towpaths are still visible, but mostly in decay.</div>
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Some older trees, now hosting huge fungi, had also seen better times.</div>
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The scenery changed to a soft ripple effect.</div>
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We are staring to look for moorage for the night; we were tired.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03413782411711512317noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8054359068473059887.post-15824120836080248872013-08-29T10:54:00.003-07:002013-08-29T10:54:47.702-07:00In Search of WiFi<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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We have not been in France long enough to find a more permanent internet connection. Although some larger towns along the way offer WIFI in their tourist bureau or library, most are too small for the Golden Arches. </div>
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We walk through small towns with rows of empty store fronts with a "A Louer", "For Rent" signs as their only display feature. Gone are the small stores; they can no longer keep up with the current change and consumer demand. The ones that remain are post office/tobacconist/bakery/lotto store all in one.</div>
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It seems that the baker and post master still make home deliveies.</div>
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We continue our journey down the canal towards the next town hoping for better internet connections.</div>
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We pass through some old tunnels, some are now lit, but a few still remain in darkness with only the light at the end of the tunnel visible. Some have tow paths, formerly used by horses for pulling the barges, but now popular cycling routes. </div>
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We passed under ancient bridges that played a major role in their time, but are now insignificant even for the swans.</div>
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The weather forecast had been for rain and it was 100% accurate. The handling of the locks remained the same whether in sunshine or in rain. Most of these locks are on remote control, with a transponder issued to us as we entered the Ardennes canal system. Once inside the lock there is a ladder, mostly covert in green slime and on top of it is the starting mechanism for the cycling the lock.</div>
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Each of these little locks is so individual, some with fruit trees and flowers others with old water pumps. </div>
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As the locks fills with water we absorb the serenity of this little space. We are on your own, with no lock keeper in sight and in an emergency there is a small intercom. We wander through this land that has been used by barges throughout the centuries. In the past the lock keepers worked the locks by hand and sold fresh bread, baking, milk, eggs and wine to passing bargees. Only the lock houses remain, but these are no longer occupied by lock keepers.</div>
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When the lock doors open, a new scene emerges and we glide along toward the next corner and another lock.</div>
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We come to the end of a very wet day with still no WiFi.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03413782411711512317noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8054359068473059887.post-50929719669187197862013-08-23T02:57:00.001-07:002013-08-23T02:57:49.052-07:00Good-bye Belgium<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Before I joined Michael on Yacht Sequitur, I was crewing on other boats. Through crewing I met Isabelle, a French-Canadian girl who lives in Montreal. While we were crewing on a catamaran in the Caribean for three months, she received a new crew position on a Dutch boat in Trinidad. Since I spoke Dutch she asked me to join her on the journey from Trinidad to Curacao. </div>
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I had returned to my home on Vancouver Island and Isabelle had returned to hers in Montreal, when we were making arrangements to join the Dutch boat. In her emails she wrote, that for me to meet her in Montreal would be an asshole. In my email reply to her I suggested the correct word was "hassle" not "asshole". </div>
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Since then Michael and I have used the word "hasshole" for dealing with an extremed difficult situation or a difficult person.</div>
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Currently, on the canals, we have been handling about nine locks a day. It is time consuming work and can take the entire day. The locks vary in sizes and conditions with the older ones having poorly spaced cleats and bollards and it can become a challenge to secure the barge. Safety seems to be an issue and there are alarms that are sounded when the doors close, when the sluices are opened and when we have reached our water level. The lock master ensures that you are safely secured before turning on the turbulence of water. </div>
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On our second last lock just outside of Dinant Belgium we met our Belgian "hasshole", in fact a pair of them.</div>
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We entered the lock on low water side and as Michael steered the barge into the lock, the doors started closing on us as while we were still beside them. We needed to hurry. Once inside the lock we saw missing cleats and no ladders to reach the top bollards, which were too high to reach from the barge. To make matters worse they had installed safety railing very close to the bollards, making it impossible to toss the lines around them. Michael was trying to do this by standing on the cabin roof, but didn't make it. In the meantime, without any warning, the water was turned on full blast causing turbulence. We were still not secured as I was trying to get the line over the bollard with a boathook but keep on missing it. I finally hooked on the bollard itself with the boathook and hoped to keep steady this way. The boat hook slipped off and I went flying backwards. </div>
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Leaning on the safety rail and looking down on us, were the two lock keepers watching our dilemma with cold drinks in hand. Neither one acknowledging us nor making a move to help us. After I made my spill, one of them actually moved, only to get another cold drink. We finally made it to the top of the lock and were totally confused by their lack of professionalism and concern. I can only think that it was Walloon, French Belgium, where they dislike the Flemish and the Dutch and they made their point.</div>
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We bypassed Dinard to our last lock in Belgium which was uneventful, passersby grabbed our lines effortlessly and placed it around the bollards. </div>
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Then we entered France. The lock master met us with a long pole with a hook on its end, to take our lines, place them safely around the bollards and helped us secure. He was courteous and helpful, we had finally arrived in France.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03413782411711512317noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8054359068473059887.post-61261923046213476412013-08-21T00:36:00.000-07:002013-08-21T00:39:33.912-07:00The Worlds Most Dangerous Hikes.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px;"> !. Huayna Piccu, Peru</span><br />
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2. The Maze, Uthah USA</div>
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3. Mount Hua Shan, China</div>
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4. Kokoda Track, Papau New Guinea</div>
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5. Grouse Grind, Vancouver</div>
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6. Drakensberg Traverse, South Africa</div>
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7. Cascade Saddle, New Zealand</div>
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8. Aonach Eagach Ridge, Scotland</div>
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9. Kalalau, Hawaii</div>
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10. El Caminito del Rey, Spain</div>
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I came across a list of the 'World's Most Dangerous Hikes' and my eye caught number 5, Grouse Grind, Vancouver. The Grouse Grind is located in North Vancouver where I lived for most of my adult life. North Vancouver is a hikers' and climbers' paradise and covers a terrain from bear-filled dense woods to steep cliffs. The Grouse Grind is not particular beautiful, but is a short steep climb. The trail gains up 2,800 feet in just 1.8 miles including 2830 stairs, making it one of the steepest trails anywhere. </div>
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Mountaineering and fitness freaks use it for training. Since 1999, three people have died on this trail and a large percentage of the annual North Vancouver Fire and Rescue Service missions take place on the Grind. Tired hikers take a tumble and loose their way at night. The trip is so grisly it often takes twelve rescuers to to get a hiker of the mountain.</div>
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I have climbed the Grind only once. It was with some fitness freak friends when I was 50 years old and made up there in one and a quarter hours. Not particularly fast, as some would actually run past me on the trail. It was steep, as the terrain had been carved to accommodate the previous and obsolete cable car route. Once the top of the Grind is reached, there is the most magnificent panoramic view of the city of Vancouver below. </div>
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After absorbing the view I took the safe cable car down the mountain, reminding myself never to do this again.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03413782411711512317noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8054359068473059887.post-37974709876392808232013-08-20T11:10:00.004-07:002013-08-20T11:10:48.154-07:00Return to Belgium<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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We left this morning after a warm family get-together and a celebration of the lives of Ruth and Gerald, Michaels' parents.</div>
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The family met at Cape Enrage near the head of the Bay of Fundy, located between the provinces of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. The Bay of Fundy is known for its high tidal range and the Canadian Hydrographic Service had measured ranges as high as 17 metres. The highest recorded was in October 1869 during a tropical cyclone named the Saxby Gale measuring 21.6 metres. </div>
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During a 12.4-hour tidal period, 115 billion tonnes of water flow in and out of the bay.</div>
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Cape Enrage was well named with the strong tides and winds and was the favourite picnic spot for the Walsh family. The winds became stronger and did not want us to linger to long; we returned to the little house at Shediac Cape. The food was wonderful and we caught up on the lives of family members and swapped stories with lots of laughs. We scattered the ashes at favourite spots as we said our good-byes.</div>
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The Atlantic coast is not heavily populated with only small aircrafts servicing the area. Our flight from Moncton to Montreal was fully booked and we had to take a taxi the 150 kilometres to the next small airport, Saint John were we caught our connecting flight.</div>
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After two taxi rides, five Air Canada take-off and landings and four train connections we were on our last bus ride. The bus stop was located near the Zonder Zorg and we had our luggage stowed in the rack by the front entrance. As there was no one waiting for the bus, I asked the bus driver if he could open the front door for us. He refused and we had to drag our bags to the back door.</div>
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It was Tuesday; we were back in Belgium.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03413782411711512317noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8054359068473059887.post-55490170124251095562013-08-19T12:49:00.002-07:002013-08-19T12:49:25.388-07:00Ecce Homo<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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In August 2012 there was an article published about a failed attempt at painting restoration performed by an elderly 81 year-old woman named Cecelia Jiménez. Amateur painter Jiménez wished to restore damage on a little-know fresco, named Ecce Homo, Behold the Man. </div>
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The original painting was created by a minor painter, Elias Garcia Martinez and It had remained in peaceful obscurity in the church since it was painted in 1930. The fresco had been a donation to the Santuario de Misericordia Church, in the hills outside of the Spanish town of Borja. Elias Garcia Martinez's granddaughter had made a donation to the church for the restoration of the fresco.</div>
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According to the church, Jiménez restored the painting without permission. However she claimed the priest allowed her to do so. After assessing the damage caused by the restoration, the church was seeking profession help with the restoration of the restoration. Church members had noticed it and reported it as suspected vandalism and later Cecelia confessed that she had a hand in it.</div>
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After the article was published Cecelia was reported to have suffered from a crippling anxiety attacks, reluctant to eat or leave home. She soon felt well enough to contact a lawyer.</div>
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Cecilias' version of Ecce Homo became a tourist attraction with unauthorized images appearing on T-shirts and mugs; she wanted a cut of the profits. The local council and Cecelia are in the process of signing a deal to share the profits from the merchandise with 49% for Cecelia. </div>
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The Santuario de Misericordia Church with its inactive convent has once again come to life. A walk through the quiet hallways of the old convent gives one a sense of a prison and of solitary confinement. The now crowded church with the disfigured fresco has drawn 40,000 visitors and raised more than €50,000 or $66,285 for the local charity in town.</div>
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Cecilias' painting now joins the ranks of the Mona Lisa, as it has been placed behind bulletproof glass, the only fresco in the church to received that honour.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03413782411711512317noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8054359068473059887.post-17196029909192453222013-08-18T06:45:00.002-07:002013-08-18T06:49:14.834-07:00Visiting the Walsh's<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Outside of Shediac at Shediac Cape is where the Walshes have lived for the last fifty years. The fifty acres of land first belonged to the grandfather but Peter, Michael's brother bought it from him. Michael's parents also lived on the land, in their own little house, planing flowers, vegetables and fruit.</div>
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Today it is evident that a generation has moved on and I took a tour of the acreage.</div>
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First there are trees, lots of them; matter of fact it is a forest.</div>
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As we near the woods, logging equipment comes into view. It has all been assembled from scrap old parts by Peter.</div>
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Not far away is an outdoor sawmill, which was meticulously designed, made and operated by Peter.</div>
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A newly build drying trailer for the newly sawn boards is another Walsh product.</div>
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The new shed to house all the equipment is near completion.</div>
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The tractors.</div>
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This is a small glimpse into what is outside, there are several more workshops, welding shops and a boat building shed.</div>
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I am impressed, but the little family home, which after decades is still patiently waiting for a dishwasher to be bought and installed.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03413782411711512317noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8054359068473059887.post-67624602680318187642013-08-17T07:29:00.002-07:002013-08-17T07:33:44.289-07:00Shediac, New Brunswick<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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We have arrived in Atlantic Canada after leaving Brussels twice. Our flight to Montreal left on time but after half an hour in flight we needed to return to Brussels because of an onboard medical emergency. We landed with a full load with the fire department standing-by to cool down the overheated wheels and brakes. The passenger was evacuated and the family of five deplaned. The next two and a half hours were spent offloading their checked bags, cooling of wheels and refuelling. We had missed our connection to Moncton and waited five hours for the next flight. Our car needed rebooking and our B&B needed to be advised of our late arrival after midnight. Twenty-five hours later after leaving the barge, we fell into bed in our B&B; it had been a very long day.</div>
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The following day we caught up with family and spent some time shopping to fill the list we brought with us. For interest, we checked-out prices in the supermarkets, especially the fish. We found a great selection of fresh fish with excellent prices, particularly for the lobster. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRcHeI-FV8UhL-_4RLK6fECx_1v0JDbaa8iIHDlD02u1Nlv0G0NdfcM9wNvnZ8gBhLtRXTsdJxXAwKOvzGO74UO_DwWbwbVNxXgKhBQTt2ubjTpPKmT5pQ9JbtvSZv5qjbWX9unr9DyaUO/s1600/lobster+sized.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="380" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRcHeI-FV8UhL-_4RLK6fECx_1v0JDbaa8iIHDlD02u1Nlv0G0NdfcM9wNvnZ8gBhLtRXTsdJxXAwKOvzGO74UO_DwWbwbVNxXgKhBQTt2ubjTpPKmT5pQ9JbtvSZv5qjbWX9unr9DyaUO/s640/lobster+sized.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Outside the supermarket the lobsters were really big.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTTo64NZRgMsNJ5IWFVGeU417IyEj_eT9i53IV4XZEI2Dd5nprdkipYIBFIJtJb-MDnZZHvp9yv4k2tQ2pH8i6Tsj9iU8HO-jUKG5-Jbh2Dag2PQKnRwE1bvwtEY_8_l_INWcxCiZ_Yvn9/s1600/+michael+sized+sized.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTTo64NZRgMsNJ5IWFVGeU417IyEj_eT9i53IV4XZEI2Dd5nprdkipYIBFIJtJb-MDnZZHvp9yv4k2tQ2pH8i6Tsj9iU8HO-jUKG5-Jbh2Dag2PQKnRwE1bvwtEY_8_l_INWcxCiZ_Yvn9/s640/+michael+sized+sized.jpg" width="616" /></a></div>
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I found Michel talking to an old wooden fisherman sharing stories of the sea, hurricanes and Cape Horn. I think he even sold him a copy of his book.</div>
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We are enjoying the down time and the novelty of having a car to get us around.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03413782411711512317noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8054359068473059887.post-26773142523740941672013-08-14T20:25:00.000-07:002013-08-14T20:25:02.549-07:00To Brussels Airport<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9TQcBVFUCc3DNXD-YMHUkWUI8S4GeyCm3NxQ5sman58lco8QDcATEuSYF875VZ0nMRKvanbhGwjeq8-84SKn323TaQVXXQ0OHNJ_XzuS27XxJQQz3BUpvJSJbR6gHV70TKMIFK2p0YMn2/s1600/train+station+namur+sized.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="494" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9TQcBVFUCc3DNXD-YMHUkWUI8S4GeyCm3NxQ5sman58lco8QDcATEuSYF875VZ0nMRKvanbhGwjeq8-84SKn323TaQVXXQ0OHNJ_XzuS27XxJQQz3BUpvJSJbR6gHV70TKMIFK2p0YMn2/s640/train+station+namur+sized.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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We did some cycling Wednesday and found the area cycle unfriendly. No bicycle racks, nor designated lanes and very few cyclists. The cycle trip took us to our destination, the local artisan bakery for freshly baked croissants. </div>
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We wanted the croissants for breakfast, as we are on our way to Brussels airport early in the morning for our stand-by flight to Montreal. This is peak seasons and the flights are full for the next few days, all returning in time for school in the beginning of September.</div>
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We did a trail run to the train station with the local bus, which stops close to the marina. I was intrigued with the €38 fee for a senior yearly pass, as well as with the designated senior, pregnant ladies and handicapped seats. These were upholstered in plush fabric embroidered with all the symbols. </div>
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On our bus ride we came across a wine bar called Bord de L'ô and has since gone out of business.</div>
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At the train station there was a "working Corner" that you can sit and do computer work and simultaneously cycle on a stationary bicycle.</div>
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All went well in our timing, only to find out that the Thursday the 15th is at statutory holiday with a reduced bus schedule and none early enough for us to make the train to the airport. Our flight leaves early at 10:50 am and with a two hour prior check-in time and a hour and a half train ride it calls for an early start. We rejigged plans and reserved a taxi for 0545.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03413782411711512317noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8054359068473059887.post-2031439069003228262013-08-14T00:26:00.003-07:002013-08-14T00:26:40.094-07:00Belgium Chocolate<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOOkHUW5X84hv1_2h3_Gl5Jd-vAavH6M9akOKzNEP7wH-4dCqvO0rAlEvxlKHrpjGkkrANTd5UQ7nfka2lMWlEXNnpLCfY1EZOCQTUfE2GFO5W8o5tvYhA87niat85-Xnv6le_izqaqtuX/s1600/Belgium+Chocolate+sized.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOOkHUW5X84hv1_2h3_Gl5Jd-vAavH6M9akOKzNEP7wH-4dCqvO0rAlEvxlKHrpjGkkrANTd5UQ7nfka2lMWlEXNnpLCfY1EZOCQTUfE2GFO5W8o5tvYhA87niat85-Xnv6le_izqaqtuX/s640/Belgium+Chocolate+sized.jpg" width="452" /></a></div>
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We weren't that enthusiastic to jump on our bicycles and check out the area, instead we walked to the supermarket. There we scoured the chocolate isles and brought home a few samples to try.</div>
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What makes Belgium chocolate so unique is the quality of ingredients and the old world manufacturing techniques. There are still some small chocolate shops that continue to make them by hand using original equipment and old recipes.</div>
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Belgium chocolate is considered to be the gourmet standard by which all other chocolates are measured. The Swiss, known for their own high quality chocolate, imported the basic recipe from chocolatiers in France and Belgium.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03413782411711512317noreply@blogger.com0